Use a extending wheel nut wrench (that can be pulled out to double length).

• Make it a habit, every time you have the wheels off, to loosen the bleed nipples. Tighten them carefully, brake hard, look for leaks and put back the caps.

Tighten every second bolt clockwise.

1. The car must be on a completely flat surface.
2. Have the car in first gear and tighten the handbrake well.
3. Remove the back fenders.
4. Get the bolts loose with the handle of the tool pulled out.
5. Start the car and set the height adjustment on the upper position. Turn off the engine when it is completely up.
6. Put the jack under the front jacking point and jack up until both wheels are clear of the ground. Put a safety stand under the rear jacking point.
7. Remove the wheels. Make sure everything is in order (brake pads, rust, etc.).
8. Put on the wheels. (You can put some copperpaste on the wheel bolts, as described here: Put a little copperpaste in a twist ball that you put around the threads of the bolt. Squeeze hard together with one hand, and screw the bolt out with the other.) Bend and lift the wheels to check that there is nothing wrong with the ball joints, steering and so on. Spin around the rear wheel to control the wheel bearings.
9. Remove the safety stand and lower the car.
10. Tighten the bolts with the handle of the tool collapsed. Tighten every second bolt clockwise until they sit quite firmly.
11. Set the car in normal driving position and control the air pressure in all four wheels, plus the spear wheel. (What air pressure to have; look at a note on the A-pillar with the drivers door open. Air pressure to the spare wheel is found on the side of the tire.)
12. Put on the rear fenders. Put grease on the bolts and put in oil where the bolts goes.
13. To be completely safe, check the wheelbolts after a few miles.

• If you don't have, get yourself a garage jack. It makes the job a lot easier.
IMPORTANT: Must only be used on hard, level surface (eg concrete floor).

• If you have a good torque wrench, use it to tighten the bolts. How hard you should tighten is difficult to advice, I myself use 110 Nm of alloy wheels and 115 Nm on steel rims. (That might be a bit much, the service manual says 70 to 90 Nm.)

• Bolts for steel wheels and alloy wheels are usually of different lengths.