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Brake lining
Min. 3 mm
Brake disc
Min. 18 mm
The brake discs MUST be replaced if they are thinner than 18 mm!!!
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1 Half-caliper
2 Brake disc
3 Set 4 brake pad
4 Brak pad spring
5 Retaining pin
6 Caliper piston
7 Piston seal
8 Piston seal
9 Caliper seal
10 Drain screw
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The drawing is borrowed from the Citroën CX' parts list
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11 Bleed screw cap
12 Brake air defct
13 Caliper screw
14 Disc fix screw
15 Capscrew
16 Capscrew
17 Spring washer
18 Spring washer
19 Wear harness
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• The front and rear brakes are independent of each other.
• The brake accumulator gives spare pressure to the front brakes, in addition to giving pressure to the rest of the system.
• The brake accumulator is placed below the battery.
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The drawing is borrowed from the Citroën CX' service manual
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If the hydraulic pressure should disappear while driving,
you will first notice that the car gets very heavy on the steering wheel.
You will still be able to turn it, but you must use your muscles.
The suspension and the rear brakes will stop working.
But the front brakes will still work for a while, if the brake accumulator is functioning.
If everything should fail, you will still have the hand brakes.
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Replacing the brake pads
The wires shall go through
a short plastic hose and under the brake pad spring as shown here.
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Disassembly
- Clean well.
- Disconnect the wires from the brake pads (if they still are there).
- Take out the locking pin (5) (push in 4).
- Remove the brake pad spring (4).
- Remove the old brake pads (2x3).
Assembly
- Clean well. Blow clean with compressed air.
- Put in 2 thin plywood sheets the same size as brake pads (to protect the brake disc).
Use a big screwdriver or similar and press all pistons all the way in. Remove the plywood sheets.
- Put in the new brake pads (with the lining facing the brake disc).
- Put on a thin layer of copper paste on the brake pad spring (4) and mount it.
NB! DO NOT get copper paste on the brake pads or on the brake disc!!! Replace the brake pad spring with a new one if necessary.
- Put in the locking pin (5) and make sure that the brake pad spring engages in both tracks on the locking pin.
- Connect the wires and strap them in place.
- Brake in the brake pads.
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• When you are removing the old brake pads, they might be stuck.
Try knocking gently on them with a hammer, and bend them sideways while pulling them out.
Then use a square awl and file out the slot where the brake pads shall move. It is very important
that the new brake pads slips easily into place and can move freely.
• You can put on a little copper paste at the backside of the
brake pad (side facing the brake piston), but be careful not to get
any paste on the brake pads or brake disks!!!
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Replacing the brake pads
(the thorough way)
Plywood in the caliper.
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- Remove the old brake pads.
- Put in 2 thin plywood sheets the same size as brake pads.
- Start the car and step hard on the brake pedal. Turn of the engine.
- Remove the half caliper and the brake disc and remove the plywood sheets.
- Clean and grease all 4 pistons with a little LHM, clean them with a paper towel
and press them in again (PROTECTIVE GOGGLES!).
- Mount the brake disc (must be cleaned thoroughly!), half caliper and new brake pads.
(Control that the brake pads for the hand brake is in place.)
- Bleed the brakes.
- Brake in the brake pads.
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Half caliper, inside.
If it is difficult to push in the pistons, you can on the half caliper use a large plier, and on the main caliper tap gently with a hammer.
Remember to put a flat pice of wood onto the pistons first.
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Controling the warning for worn out brake linings
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- Switch on the ignition.
- The wire that the brake pads are connected to: Put one and one in contact with the brake pad.
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(Mark: The wires that goes into the engine bay, not the wires that comes from the brake pads!)
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Replacing the brake disc
The brake disc removed.
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Disassembly
- Clean well.
- Remove the locking pin (5) (push in 4) and 4.
- Remove the brake pads (2x3).
- Loosen the two screws for the hand brake and adjust outwards as long as it goes.
- Unscrew 4x13.
- Put down the half caliper (1).
- Remove the hand brake brake pad.
- Unscrew 2x14 (if they still are there).
- Pry off the brake disc (2).
- Remove the other hand brake brake pad.
- Clean and grease all 4 pistons with a little LHM, clean them with a paper towel
and press them (6) all the way in (PROTECTIVE GOGGLES!).
Assembly
- Assemble in reverse order.
- Put in new brake pads (also on the hand brakes if necessary).
- Clean the area where the half caliper shall be mounted and see to that the two
O-rings are where they should be (would be best to put in new ones).
- If 2x14 are gone (snapped off) you have to fasten the brake disc
with 3 wheel bolts (to keep it steady) when adjusting the hand brake.
- Bleed the brakes.
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• 2x14 can be difficult to get out. Normally you will get them out a little,
but then they will stop. Screw them all the way in and out again many times;
they will get a little longer out every time, and finally you will get them out.
Clean the threads and add a little copper paste before you put them back in again.
• If you don't manage to loosen the brake disc, you can try this:
Clean well, and mount the half caliper and the brake pads. Bleed the brakes.
Start the engine and put the gear level in 1th gear to make the brake disc start turning.
Brake hard. Now hopefully the brake disc will get loose.
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To get loose a piston that is stuck
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- Remove the brake pads.
- Dismount the half caliper.
- Dismount the brake disc.
- Make a drawing of the pistons position on a thin paper or similar.
- Cut a hole (a bit bigger than the diameter of the piston) in a thick wood plate.
- Glue the plate together with a thin plywood plate. The plate now made should be so thick
that it barely fits into the caliper.
- Put the plate into the caliper with the hole facing the stuck piston.
- Mount the half caliper and bleed the brakes.
- Step hard on the brake pedal (engine running). The piston will now hopefully pop out.
- Dismount the half caliper and remove the plate.
- Clean and take out the two piston seals.
After you have got the tracks for these spotlessly clean, you mount new ones.
- Clean and grease the piston with a little LHM,
clean it with a paper towel and put it back in.
- Mount the brake pad (must be cleaned very well!), the half caliper and the brake pads.
- Bleed the brakes.
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If you would like to do the job extra well, you can make a "brake disc" out of wood.
Make two deep holes meant for the pistons on one side as shown in the drawing.
Then you can simply insert the disc so that you have a hole facing the piston which is stuck.
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Replacing the brake pipe on the caliper
• The new brake pipe you put on must be treated so it will last for many years.
You can for instance put on a layer of Owatrol and 2-3 layers of lacquer made for high temperatures.
Then polish and lacquer sealer.
Do also remember to give the brake pipe on the other caliper the same treatment.
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Disassembly
- Clean well.
- Remove the screws D and E.
- Unscrew F.
- Unscrew C.
- Unscrew B if there is no bracket on the new pipe.
Assembly
- Mount the brake pipe on C (remember copper washer). NB! See to that
the flexible brake pipe C is connected to don't get twisted!!! (Can be difficult.)
It must hang in a nice bow after the brake pipe is mounted.
- Mount F (see to that there are copper washers on both sides).
- Mount D and E (put a little copper paste on the threads).
- Bleed the brakes.
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C can be terribly stuck. (It can be smart to fasten A in a wise.)
Be careful so you don't damage the new brake pipe,
if you take it from another car.
• It would be best to put on new copper washers.
If you are using the old ones, they have to be glowed before mounting.
(Warm them till they get white glowing, and then put them in cold water.)
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© www.leirdal.info
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The brake pads (3) must have sufficient lining, and be able to move freely.
